World On A Plate

Bacon - Chinese Style

                

A few weekends ago, after leaving the SF Ferry Plaza Farmers Market I ended up being diverted through Russian Hill.  As I navigated the car over the hills I met up with a curiosity--a middle-aged Chinese woman tightening twine  off a wooden stick held up between two wooden chairs.  From his line hung long 7” to 10” slabs of meat.  I double-parked to take a closer look. 

 The basement level apartment was dark inside excepting for a shadow of movement.  I waved and out came a middle-aged woman with a warm face. It turned out to be Chinese bacon air-curing in the dry, winter sunlight. As good a place as any right outside her apartment door on the city sidewalk.  What I was able to piece together was that it was Lop Yuk or Chinese bacon.  Her mother made a new batch every six weeks or so.  “It’s much better and you save monies.” She said grinning. The simple recipe involves the belly cut of the pig treated with Chinese wine (shaoxing) soy sauce, brown sugar, and spices for seven to ten days or until it is hard.

 In order to use it in recipes it needs to be soaked for about 6 or 7 hours before being sliced, chopped and fried for use in recipes such as Chinese stir-fried greens or Chinese sticky rice.  I’ve also simply sautéed it and added it to scrambled eggs.

 Unfortunately the woman I chatted with said that she never made it herself as her mother “only” was the one to make it for the family.  She said, “someday! I watch very careful!”

Chinese Stir Fried Greens with Bacon
Adapted from The Bacon Cookbook by James Villas

 

3 oz. air-cured Chinese bacon, soaked in water at least 6 hours (rind removed), coarsely chopped

1 tblspn peanut oil

1 tblspn sesame oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

2 tspns salt

2 lbs Chinese shredded greens (e.g. bok choy, spinach)

3 tblspns chicken broth

 

In a large skilled fry the bacon over medium heat until crisps, drain on paper towels, and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.  Add the two types of oils to the bacon fat, increase the heat to high, and when just smoking, add the garlic and salt and stir fry for 15 seconds.  Add the greens and stir-fry until wilted, about 3-4 minutes.  Add the broth and bacon and stir-fry until the greens are still slightly crisp, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

 

Serves 4

Beautiful Breads - Spicy White Pepper Jack Bread

               

The last four months have somewhat  erased any "regular routine" I thought I had.  After a few weeks restabilizing after India I took a 3-week trip to Boston to tend to family concerns. Now I'm back and although I started this post a few days ago I stopped when I heard the devasting news from Mumbai.  The new friends I made in Mumbai during my stay just a few weeks past are all  safe.  Needless to say it's left me a little tweaked and unsettled given that I sat in the lobby of the Taj--a maginficient old lady--just people watching and think how special Mumbai and its people really are. 

Image: Artist Unknown

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A few days ago anticipating leftovers I decided to try my hand once again with making filled breads.  I have had pretty good success over the years perfecting technique while making chocolate babka.  This is only made at the holidays elevating it's unique and special status to those that receive the tasty holiday gift.  Bread making, as much as everyone looks for a quick homemade route is time intensive.

However, my first attempt, about six months ago, with Cinnamon-Raisin Bread  from Margaux Sky's Beautiful Breads & Fabulous Fillings left my little cottage smoky and me fuming  angry to the point of tossing the whole lot--bread and pan out the door and into the bin followed by some cruse words.  You see, these breads are not for the meek.  I've been making bread for years. I go through cycles were I am experimenting with egg breads, sourdough starters and no-knead breads.  They are a serious but rewarding endeavor.  This particular cookbook has such strong components:  a creamy Viognier and pineapple sauce; coffee liqueur mushroom sauce and a quick honey-mustard-curry sauce.  Unfortunately it is just a tad weak on technique and the recipes are written loosely so this is not for anyone on their maiden voyage.  With these filled breads you need to prepare the fillings in advance of the bread.  The rising and kneading are relatively quick requiring two rises. 

Long before Oprah's name became synonymous with Ms. Sky's Curried Chicken Sandwich she ran a  popular San Luis Obispo sandwich shop. and that sandwich is now called the "O Special." The chicken-based filling is sandwiched between Spicy White Pepper-Jack Bread. This, I thought, would be an excellent compliment to a post-Thanksgiving turkey salad. 

The entire effort probably took about 4 hours. The curry sauce is really just a honey-mustard  with a ration of 2:1.  Next time I would decrease the amount of honey as it was a tad too sweet for me.  Also I might do a blend of Monterey jack and its zippy cousin--pepper Jack. I also used a yellow curry powder which I felt guilty about doing as my masala dabba sat there begging to be used from my travels to India.  Old habits die hard.   Also, what I can't figure out is Ms. Sky's portions there's no way the amount of curry sauce and jack cheese could be accommodated in this bread so I just did what I could.

The taste is good, especially when toasted and with the turkey salad and cranberry-quince chutney piled on top.    Also you would think Ms. Skye is a stock holder in Lawry's Lemon Pepper--it's used everywhere.  I forgot how tasty this blend actually is so it's back in the cupboard.

Next on the horizon is Peanut-Butter Fudge Bread.  The basic white bread is made and tucked in the fridge.  This weekend we'll see what lessons bloom from that effort.

Spicy White Pepper-Jack Bread

Makes 1 loaf - Adapted recipe from Beautiful Breads by Margaux Sky

Basic White Bread Dough (1/4 portion-see below)

2 tblspns olive oil

1 1/2 cups curry sauce (see below)

1 1/2 tblspns cayenne, 1 tblspn Lawry's lemon pepper, 1/4 tspn salt - Mix together

2 cups shreded Montery Jack cheese

1 egg

2 tablespons water

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Prepare the Basic White Dough.

Generously butter a 9-inch loaf pan.

Roll out  1/4 of the risen basic white dough into a 9" x 11" rectangle so that the long side is near you.

Spread the olive oil over the dough followed by the curry sauce.  Sprinkle the cayene-lemon pepper-salt blend over the curry sauce.  Sprinkle the cheese over the spcies.

Tightly roll the dough into a loaf, with the rolling action going away from your body. To hold in most of the filling, fold the outer edges of the dough in as you roll. When finished, pinch the seam together firmly.

Place the dough into the prepared loaf pan seam side down . Loosely cover with plastic wrap, place the pan in a warm, dry place and allow the dough to rise for 60 minutes.

Preheat over to 400 degrees. After rise bake for about 1 hour.  During the last 10 minutes of baking time sprinkle wome of the filing over the top of the loaf for color and taste.  Cool for 30 minutes before slicing.

Basic White Dough
Ingredients: Makes 4 loaves  (but I cut the portions below in half and had success)

·       2 tablespoons yeast

·       4 cups warm milk

·       4 cups half-and-half (I used whole milk instead)

·       1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted

·       1/2 cup powdered sugar

·       16 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

·       3 1/2 tablespoons salt

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the milk and half-and-half. Let stand for 5 minutes, until the yeast is foamy. Add the butter and mix with a whisk. Add the powdered sugar and mix well to break up any clumps.

In a large bowl (or stand mixer bowl), combine the flour and salt. Slowly add the liquid mixture to the flour mixture and knead well. If you’re using a stand mixer, knead for 3 to 4 minutes. If you’re kneading by hand, knead for 4 to 7 minutes. Keep the dough moist for a soft, tender bread.

Place the kneaded dough in a generously buttered bowl, cover with a towel or loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, dry place for 1 hour.

NOTE: {START THE FILLING}

Punch down the dough with your fist, and divide into 4 portions, one for each loaf.

Curry Sauce

1 1/2 cups honey

3/4 cup spicy mustard

1 tblspn Lawry's lemon pepper

1 tblspn curry powder

1/4 tspn salt

In a large bowl combine all ingredients and mix well.   Makes 2 cups--you only need 1 1/2 cups for the bread--there's extra if you want to warm it up and blend with your chicken or turkey.

American Masala

               

I leave in 3 days for India. The task at hand for the last few  months has been to build a foundation in the essentials of Indian cookery. (Note to self: you seem to be adopting a distinctly British orientation to your spellings and vocabulary.)  In my research, and additions to my cookbook library, is American Masala by Suvir Saran. Also the author of Indian Home Cooking Chef Saran is co-executive chef at the 2007 1* Michelin restaurant Dévi in New York. 

The two cookbooks are approachable, fun and more than likely if you cook on a fairly regular basis your spice pantry will suffice. American Masala isn't about traditional Indian food—it's about adding new flavors to the great American melting pot, using spices to liven up the old standbys—from meatloaf to macaroni and cheese—and enjoying dishes that are exciting and diverse yet as familiar as your own mom's cooking.  It's a fresh take on contemporary Indian cuisine. 

Sambhaar is a spice blend that is the southern Indian equivalent to Garam Masala, a spice blend used often in northern India, which is to herbes de Provence or Chinese five-spice powder-- a foundational, essence of the cuisine spice blend.  The nutty flavor of a sambhaar comes from the addition of channa dal (yellow split peas) and urad dal (small white lentils).  If you are unfamiliar with the Indian cooking, you may think this  blend is bitter tasting.  If making it at home, and you want a more traditional taste--double the amount of fenugreek seeds.   I have found over the last few months that preparing these blends in generous portions allows for quick prep during the week.

Chef Saran seems to be somewhat less strict than his peer Floyd Cardoz of Tabla when it comes to curry powder.  He taught a session at the Gourmet Institute two years ago and what I vividly recall was his distaste over curry powder.  While I understand the plea if it means making the dish or not after work or when pinched for time well he's all about eating at home.

Other recipes that were tasty include the very quick Double-Basil Mussels with pasta shells--double basil as the herb is added twice in a tempering oil method--a central technique in Indian cooking which adds depth and intensifies the ingredients' flavors. And once it gets cooler Tamarid-Glazed Meat Loaf takes a standard America comfort food in another direction.

Stock Image: Goa coast, India

Goan-Syle Shrimp Curry

Serves 8

For the marinade

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground peppercorns
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (from about 1/2 lemon)
• 1 pound large or extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined

For the sauce

• 1 cup water
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 24 curry leaves, roughly torn (optional)
• 4 dried red chiles
• 1 teaspoon ground peppercorns
• A 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
• 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 2 cups canned chopped tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon Sambhaar, or 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
• 1 1/2 cups coconut milk
• 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro

To make the marinade, place all of the ingredients in a gallon-sized resealable plastic bag. Add the shrimp, toss to coat, and refrigerate.

Set 1/2 cup of water next to the stovetop. Heat the oil with the curry leaves (if using) and chiles in a medium pot over medium-high heat until the curry leaves start to sizzle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ground peppercorns and cook for 1 minute longer. Stir in the ginger, onion, and salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion is browned, about 8 minutes, sprinkling with water and stirring whenever the onion and ginger begin to stick to the bottom of the pot.

Add the garlic, coriander, and turmeric and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the tomatoes to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping the browned bits up from the sides and bottom of the pot, for 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the Sambhaar (see below) and cook for 1 minute, and then pour in the coconut milk and 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp and any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer and cook until the shrimp are curled and opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and serve.

Sambhaar (makes about 3/4 cup)

• 3 dried red chiles
• 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
• 2 tablespoons mustard seeds
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon white lentils (urad dal)
• 1 tablespoon yellow split peas (channa dal)
• 2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
• 2 teaspoons ground peppercorns
• 40 curry leaves (optional)

Place all of the spices in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Toast until the mustard seeds begin to pop and the skillet starts to smoke, stirring often, 3 1/2 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or coffee mill and grind until powder fine. Store in an airtight glass jar for up to 4 months.

Summertime Eats with a Flair

               

This weekend marks the official launch of grilling and que'ing season.  As the weekend unwinds there will be bags of briquettes and tanks of fuel  emptied.  While you may be tempted to start with the sausage, foot long dogs and burgers I encourage you as you walk to that grill in that backyard, patio, fire escape or city park with a copy of Grilled Pizzas & Piadinas.   This collection of sweet and savory pizzas, crispy piadinas (flat bread sandwiches) and salads goes beyond the expected.

Craig Priebe, a man "obsessed with grilled pizza", is an executive chef at Henry Crown & Company and his co-writer Dianne Jacob have pulled together 75 recipes that will inspire, What's great about this book , aside from all the photos and compact size) is that there are shortcuts.  Don't have access to outdoor grill? There is info and images of the indoor grill options. Don't want to make dough from scratch? Go to Trader Joe's they make an excellent pizza dough.  There's tips all through the 192-pages.

Priebe gives us such creativity in each recipe:  the Gamberian (Sautéed shrimp with pesto and tomato) the pie awarded Best International Pizza of the Year, the Asparago (Asparagus with pesto, pine nuts, and Brie), Thai Pong Gari (curried chicken with peanut sauce and salad) and the San Franciscan (crab with orange and beet salad. New to me are piadinas (pee-yah-DEEN-ahs), a grilled flat bread.  Italians have an expression, "Ogni donna fa la piadina a modo suo." Every woman makes Piadina in her own special way."  Here we have a Piadina Dolce e Salato (Soppressata with Parmesan crisps and honey), the PAT Piadina (pancetta, argula and tomato) and a classic combination--Piadina Neapolitan (grilled cheese with tomato and basil) or Piadina Rosti (roasted pears, mascarpone, and honey).  There's also a dessert section that includes variations on churros, apple tarts and banana split. 

Many of the savory pizzas and piadinas start with Herbed Grill Oil which is simply made by combining ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, 1 small minced clove garlic, ½ teaspoon dried oregano, ½ teaspoon dried thyme and ½ teaspoon dried basil.  After mixing well,  refrigerate.   What's great about this book is the sense of calm and ease that permeates this book.  Did the oil solidify?  Hey, "take it out a few minutes early or microwave it at 5-second intervals until it starts to liquefy."  This oil would be a great one just to have around for brushing on bread before grilling and then topping with some chopped heirloom tomatoes.

Salads are included to round out a complete meal.  Curried Carrot Raisin salad (carrot, jicama and apple in curry dressing) and a new twist to a classic the Grapefruit Caesar.  To serve up these salads as a main course there is a recipe included for what is called The Bakery Bowl,  which is simply a crispy pizza crust that's been baked over a bowl. Why haven't we seen this idea sooner!

So much punch in this little cookbook that will keep you grilling long after summer is gone.

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Craig Priebe will be at Macy's San Francisco on June 25 at 6pm  for a demonstration and signing.

Craig Priebe's How to Grill Pizza

S'more Pizza recipe

Winter Sunshine

               

I got the blues thinking of the future, so I left off and made some marmalade. It's amazing how it cheers one up to shred oranges and scrub the floor.

~D.H. Lawrence

I love citrus. A large bright family that includes sweet and sour oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, pomelos, grapefruit, tangerines, clementines (Pixies!) and kumquats (ok technically not but we all think it.) Is there any other fruit that can make you feel so happy? Is there another that can come along and enliven a winter dish of beets or simple pasta.

Over the past month I was lucky enough to receive generous harvests from a friend's backyard "orchard."  Darn those were good.  Eating them out of hand, fresh squeeze o.j. and then this cake that I made was the perfect compliment to an Easter dinner.

It's such a simple and efficient recipe using every part of the orange--peel, pith, and flesh and when all is done there is just a hint of almond carried through the very moist and dense cake. Weeks after baking this cake for Easter dinner I learned that it's very close in composition to a recipe from Claudia Rosen and Nigella Lawson.

What's even better than the cake is the compote--really a quick route to homemade marmalade.  And really what is marmalade but jam with the peel. Ok that's a bit offhand but for those that like the bright taste of orange on their toast or crumpets this part of the recipe is worth holding on to--and I promise it won't be around long enough for it to spoil.

Orange Almond Cake

Adapted from a Martha Stewart recipe. And don't we all know her recipes are thorough... follow this version you will have success.  Let's just say her recipes assume a generous base of experience by the baker.

Ingredients

6 navel or other sweet oranges

Unsalted butter, room temperature, for pan

1/2 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for pan

1 3/4 cups finely ground blanched almonds (about 6 ounces)

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 large eggs

2 cups sugar

Instructions

Place whole unpeeled oranges in a large pot and cover with cold water. Over high heat bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer gently for 2 hours. Drain off the water and set the oranges aside to cool.

A few hours later:

Preheat over to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a 9" springform pan.  Cut the cooled oranges in half; remove any seeds. Place 7 halves into a food processor and pulse until almost pureed but still a little chunky.  There should be about 3 cups.

In a small bowl whisk the ground almonds, flour, baking powder and salt together.  In an electric mixer bowl with the whisk attachment beat the eggs with 1 cup sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy.  Stir in orange puree until just combined.  Stir in flour mixture.   Pour into prepared springform pan.  Bake for about 1 hour or until a knife comes out clean from the center.  Cool completely.

Prepare orange marmalade compote:

Chop the remaining 5 orange halves into 1/2" pieces. Place in bowl.  In a medium sized saucepan combine remaining cup sugar with 3/4 cup water.  Bring to a boil until sugar is dissolved.

Add the chopped oranges and reduce heat to medium.  Simmer this mixture gently until the liquid has evaporated and thickens into a syrup about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

To serve:

arrange chopped oranges and pour any remaining syrup over top of cake. Cut into wedges. Can be stored up to two days in the refrigerator.

Spring Supper

               

Last Sunday in the early morning spring drizzle I got myself over to the farmers market.  The offerings are just beginning to change over to spring yield.  Unfortunately there were no early English peas to be found just now which I will just need to be a little more patient.  I had this idea of a dish that will remain tucked away until nature is ready. What was in abundance was citrus, radish, asparagus and green onions.  And that, as we all know, is what you do when you frequent the farmers market.  You go with what nature provides as she knows best.

Interesting little thing I learned at the market about asparagus is that the "jumbo" variety is produced from a younger plant than the pencil-thin kind.  Asparagus from the Delta region has been with us for the last 6 weeks and will be around for a quite a bit longer  so here are a few other musings to consider:

Lemon-pepper fettuccine with asparagus and shrimp

Asparagus with Brown Butter-Basted Egg for One

Mollie Katzen's Glazed asparagus with  pomegranate-lime glaze

To prepare the asparagus check out The Kitchen's primer.

Asparagus Salad with Beans and Feta

This dish is super easy to prepare.  I use a small hand mandoline to make quick work of the radishes.

Ingredients

3 cups (1-inch) diagonally cut asparagus (after prepped)

1 cup canned cannellini beans or other white beans, rinsed and drained

1/2 cup thinly sliced radishes

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 tablespoons minced green onions

2 teaspoons fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Preparation

Steam the asparagus, covered, 3 minutes or until crisp-tender. Rinse asparagus with cold water, and drain. Combine asparagus and next 4 ingredients (asparagus through onions) in a large bowl.

Prepare the dressing by combining the juice and remaining ingredients in a small bowl and whisk together. Pour over asparagus mixture; toss gently to coat.

Yields 4 one-cup servings.

The Baker's Passport - Scotland

                  

Christmas is here. Or so every commercial entity would have you believe. On November 1st I saw the first Christmas tree in the lobby of a movie theater in the City. Really could we at least let the Halloween candy digest? But what it does make me think about is buttery, crisp and crumbly shortbread. To me it is a purely seasonal cookie.

My go-to is the popular export from Scotland, Walkers. While the bars and circle shaped biscuits are popular the long-standing petticoat tails has long been been a curiosity.  While Mary Queen of Scots was fond of these and there's a long history between the Scotland and France  one version says the name comes from the French petit gatelles meaning little cakes; it is generally thought that the name has its origin in the shape, which is similiar to that of the bell-hoop petticoats worn by women in the nineteenth century courts.

Originating from the oatmeal bannock that was served at pagan Yule time celebrations,  the round bannock was often scored in the center with a circle surrounded by wedges symbolizing the sun and its rays. This practice most likely originating from the Scottish New Year’s event called, Hogmanay. This shortbread varies in that it is often larger and a little thicker and decorated with candied citron peel and some almond comfits. In the Shetland and Orkney Islands it is found as Bride's Bonn and has caraway seeds. Another bit of folklore and the superstitious share that shortbread was not cut into portions but rather broken into pieces by hand. Today we’re less bound by these traditions and find them in many shapes and sizes.

Needless to say many of us eat shortbread year round as it’s a perfect pairing with tea, coffee or hot cocoa. While many recipes are handed down within families the secret to many a baker’s prized recipe is simplicity. By seeking out simple, high quality ingredients and a very short ingredient list at that the cookie essentials shine. Recipes vary with an increase of the ratio of flour to powdered sugar and in some the the addition of corn starch or vanilla. The texture of shortbread in the following recipe can be altered by replacing 1/4 cup of the flour with rice flour giving them a more crunchy texture. Or, if you prefer a more delicate tasting shortbread that melts-in-your-mouth, replace 1/2 cup of the flour with cornstarch.

Once you have this recipe in your repertoire you can move on to Millionaire’s Shortbread which is like an uptown Twix Bar.

Simple Shortbread

Traditional shortbread recipes don't usually add salt but do use salted butter it enhances the overall taste.

1 cup softened butter

½ cup powdered sugar

2 cups flour

Pinch of Salt

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Beat butter and sugar together in a large bowl.

Stir in flour and salt. Mix with hands until smooth.

Spray a 9-inch fluted tart pan or a 9" square pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours and up to overnight.

Press dough into pan. Using the tines of a fork, score dough from the edge of the circle in the center towards the edge of the pan into 12 equal wedges or squares (depending on type of pan you are using.

Bake the shortbread in the middle of the oven 25 minutes or until slightly brown around edges.

Remove from oven. Immediately cut into squares/wedges with a sharp knife

Cool on tea towel and store between waxed paper in a cookie jar.

Variations:

• For a brown sugar version substitute the powdered sugar in equal portion for brown sugar
• For chocolate shortbread add 1/3 cup cocoa to the flour step.
• Along with 1 tsp vanilla extract add one of the following options:
• Grated zest of citrus: either 2 limes or 2 lemons or 2 oranges
• Mix in- 1/2 cup mini chocolate

Perfect Party Cake

                

I am surrounded by Scorpios. I, too, am a Scorpio and celebrated my birthday in the first few days of this astrological sign. We are a passionate (ok, some say stubborn) and loyal group.  This past weekend I celebrated the birthdays of two friends. When the invite went out she mentioned that they would be buying a cake and further what flavors do we all like. She's well-mannered isn't she?  Frankly, this type of gesture goes against my birthday cake philosophy.  Said reasoning is that it' s your birthday and you won't be buying that cake and the type of cake and flavor is at your call. I would have none of that.

So I found myself making a birthday cake prior to the bowling party.  Another friend, as we were driving over, cake carrier on her lap said ,"You are setting a dangerous precedent. Now everyone will want a baked from scratch cake for their birthday.

The cake that the birthday boy and girl were seeking fit the description of The Perfect Party Cake from Dorie Greenspan's new baking cookbook, Baking: From my home to yours.  It's a four-layer round velvety white cake moist, tight-crumbed, and flavored with lemon extra and plenty of zest. layered with raspberry preserves and a silky, not-too-rich buttercream, topped with coconut.  Quite simply it's the cake that makers of birthday cards feature.  And also the one that the group in lanes 12 were drooling over.

Perfect Party Cake

Adapted from Dorie Greenspan's Baking: From My Home to Yours

12 to 14 servings

Cake

Sift together

2 ¼ cups cake flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 ¼ cups buttermilk

4 large egg whites

1 ½ cups sugar

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

4 oz unsalted butter, room temperature

1/2 teaspoon lemon extract

Buttercream

1 cup sugar

4 large egg whites

3 sticks/12 oz. unsalted butter, room temperature

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Filling & Topping

2/3 cup seedless strawberry preserves

1 1/2 cups unsweetened shredded coconut

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spray or butter two 9" x 2" round cake pans. Line the bottom of each cake pan with a buttered parchment circle.

Whisk the buttermilk and egg whites together in a separate bowl.

Combine the sugar and lemon zest in a stand mixer bowl and rub together with your fingers until the sugar is moist and smells like the lemon.

Add the butter to the mixer bowl and beat together with the sugar for 3 minutes on medium speed until the mixture is fluffy and light.

Add in the vanilla extract.

Add in the flour and buttermilk mixtures in alternating additions, starting and ending with the flour mixtures. Be sure each addition is fully incorporated before adding the next.

When everything is added beat the batter for an additional 2 minutes.

Divide the batter between the two pans and bake for 30 minutes in the oven or until the tops are set and springy, and a cake tester inserted into the centers come out clean.

Transfer the pans to wire racks and let cool for a few minutes, then flip and unmold the cakes (run a knife around the sides of the cakes if necessary). Peel the parchment off and flip the cakes back over right side up on the wire racks to finish cooling.

At this point, the fully cooled cake layers can be wrapped in plastic and kept overnight or frozen for up to 2 months.

For the buttercream:

Combine the sugar and egg whites in a medium heatproof bowl and place over a pan of simmering water.

Whisk the sugar mixture constantly over heat until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture looks smooth and shiny, about 3 minutes.

Remove mixture from heat and pour into a stand mixer bowl. Whisk on medium speed for about 5 minutes until the mixture has cooled.

Switch to the paddle attachment and with the speed on low, add the butter a few pieces at a time, beating until smooth.

When all the butter has been added, beat the buttercream on medium-high speed for about 6-10 minutes until it is very thick and smooth.

Add in the lemon juice and beat until combined. Add in the vanilla.

The buttercream is ready to be used. Place a piece of plastic wrap against the surface until you are ready to use it to prevent it from drying out.

To assemble the cake:

Using a sharp serrated knife, slice each cake layer horizontally in half.

Stir the raspberry preserves until it is loose and spreadable.

Place a layer on a cardboard cake round, cut side up. Spread about a third of the raspberry preserves on the cake layer.

Spread a layer of buttercream on top of the preserves. Top with a second cake layer.

Spread preserves and buttercream on the second cake layer as you did with the first. Top with a third cake layer.

Spread preserves and buttercream on the third cake layer as you did with the second. Top with the last cake layer, cut side down.

Use the rest of the buttercream to frost the sides and top of the cake.

Press the coconut over the sides and top of the cake.

The cake is best served a couple of hours after it is assembled to let the flavors develop. You can refrigerate it for up to 2 days, but be sure it is well covered or the cake will dry out. You should also let the cake come to room temperature before you serve it.

Fall into Salads

               

It's curious to me  how and when we notice changes in ourselves. These type of events tend to sneak up on us.  Maybe the contrast is so start, the moment right, the attitude dropped.  Who knows.  But, I never thought I'd become one of those Californians who returns after being gone for a spell, craving greens. Bowls of heaping salad. Seriously, I grew up in a non-salad New England household.  So maybe the moment was realized given all my recent business travels and the highs and lows of eating on the road. You do start to miss the creature comforts of home.

This preference was more notable while having lunch in a large banquet hall at our annual national conference in Southern Florida.  My dining companions, from the Pacific Northwest and I kept pushing what looked like a spring mix (yes in October) around our plates.  "It's sad looking isn't it?" We politely grimaced. "It's lost its vitality.  Please, could you pass the bread?"  Aren't we on this coast fussy?

Upon my return from Florida and another side business trip to Sacramento I headed straight for my favorite greens provider, Heirloom at the SFFP farmers market.  A big mixed greens bag--fava, red lettuce, and arugula. The question to me was what to compose the salad with.  I wanted the taste of fall, my favorite season--and not because it heralds my birthday but for the apple picking, the crisp air and the sweaters.  So this vinaigrette is a tribute to the tastes of autumn. 

Easy Maple Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

pinch of black pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 cups salad greens

1 pear or apple, unpeeled, cut into pieces

1/2 cup (3 ounces) blue cheese, crumbled

In a small bowl, whisk together the maple syrup, mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil; set aside.

Arrange the mixed greens on individual plates and top with the pear and cheese. Drizzle with the vinaigrette.

4 servings 

NOTE:   If you don't want to get all bothered with salad for four this vinaigrette keeps for 2-3 days in the fridge.  So shake it up in mason jar and a generous handful of greens and about a teaspoon of dressing will be just what the greens need.

            

Sweet Potatoes vs. Yams--

         

It's that time of the season for sweet potato pie, biscuits and more...so I've dug this out from the archives and warm it up a bit to answer the ongoing question.  Enjoy!

Every Thanksgiving it's guaranteed that someone will ask, 'What's the difference between yams and sweet potatoes?" It seems most don't know and assume 'well, it's two different names so it must be different, right?'  This has been my answer for many years.  Well, this year I've decided to be the smarty pants. 

The short answer is, this--yams and sweet potatoes are similar in that they grow underground and have orange flesh however  each is botanically different from the other.  The longer explanation is that yams are tropical vines of the genus Dioscorea and have a more reddish flesh. Large, starchy, and edible the tuberous roots can grow up to two even three feet long and weigh as much as 80 pounds.  Sweet potatoes belong to the morning glory family and are native to the tropical areas of the Americas. There are two basic types of sweet potatoes: moist (orange-fleshed) and dry (yellow-fleshed).  It's the orange-flesh version that is mistakenly called yams.

You see it was really a marketing angle adopted in the 1930s by some Louisiana farmers looking to distinguish their sweet tuber which they called a “yam” from the dry, pale sweet version grown in the North. So today in American supermarkets, “yams” are sweet potatoes with vivid orange color, and, when cooked, are sweet and moist. The most popular "yam" is the Beauregard, which is uniform in size and shape with smooth skin and deep orange flesh. 

So what we are seeing in the markets, at least here in the States and Canada labeled as yams are actually sweet potatoes with a relatively moist texture and orange flesh. 

Over at Straight Dope the following is offered:

"Contrary to what even some grocery store produce guys think, yams and sweet potatoes are unrelated vegetables, though in both cases you're eating the root of a tropical vine. Sweet potatoes, Ipomoea batatas ("batata" is the original Taino name, whence potato), are an American plant of the morning glory family, whereas yams are of the genus Dioscorea. Yams, which are rarely seen in the U.S. and Canada but are a staple in tropical regions, can grow up to seven feet in length. The name is thought to derive from the West African word nyami, "to eat," which is heard in Jamaican patois expressions such as, Oonu wan fi nyam banana dem?, 'Do you guys want to eat those bananas?'"

A scientific side-by-side comparison

The Bread Bible

by Beth Hensperger

Sweet Potato Biscuits

1 large sweet potato, baked and peeled (about 10oz.)

1 2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tblspn light brown sugar

2 1/2 tspns baking powder

1/2 tspn salt

6 tblspns cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1/4 cup cold milk or heavy cream

Mash or puree the sweet potato pulp by hand, in a blender, or in a food processor until smooth for a total of 3/4 cup.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  Grease or parchment-line a baking sheet.  In a bowl using a whisk or electric mixer, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt.

Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter into the dry ingredients.  The mixture will resemble coarse crumbs, with no large chunks of butter.  If the butter gets very soft at this point, refrigerate the mixture to chill the butter.  Add the sweet potato pulp and milk or cream, stirring just to moisten all the ingredients.  The dough will be moist, then stiffen while stirring.  It should be slightly shaggy, but not sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead gently about 6 times, or just until the dough holds together.  Roll out the dough into a rectangle no more than 3/4' thick.  Take care not to add too much flour at this point or the biscuits will be tough.  Cut with a floured 2" biscuit cutter, pushing straight down without twisting.  Re roll the scraps to cut out additional biscuits.

Place the biscuits 1/2" apart on the baking sheet.  Place the baking sheet on a rack in the center of the oven and bake 15 to 18 minutes or until golden brown.  Let rest a few minutes and serve hot.